How does one go about replacing insulation after replacing polybutalene plumbing under a doublewide?

Did not get in on class action suit. Finding leaks constantly. Doublewide built in 1985. 66 ft long, 24 ft.wide. Need to replace plumbing due to increase in water bills.

All of the insulation that got wet has been compromised and usually will not be reusable. We always got the rolls of R-20 and reset the insulation inside the hole by pushing the batt strip around with a pole. Then we attached a new piece of vapor barrier to the inside of the metal beam by using a 1 x 2 furring strip to attach to the floor joist. After the one side is tight, roll another 1 x2 in the barrier and pull it tight on the opposite side, attach it with nails or screws. Now get a can of spray adhesive and seal the other 2 ends. If you want you can push up on the barrier and attach it to a cross beam, but be careful that you do not pinch a water line or electrical line in the process. If you are close to South Texas, I could set you up with a complete re-plumb and vapor barrier patch job for around 2300.00. All new shutoffs, cpvc pipe, stainless steel faucet hoses, etc. I re-plumbed over 300 homes during the class action suite down here. Still do refurb for several parks.

6 Responses to “How does one go about replacing insulation after replacing polybutalene plumbing under a doublewide?”

  • bigbair70 says:

    Buy batt type insulation at least r-11 and stuff it in over the pipes. Some guys snap a piece of foam over the pipe also. It depends on how cold your outside ambient gets to. Then tape the belly band to temporally hold. Now grab some old 1/4" wood paneling or even 3/16" and wedge it over where you ripped between the steel frame members. Overlap at least 2′. Repair your plumbing with copper rings instead Of aluminum or use Qest compression fittings or equivalent.
    bigbair70–Never let them see you sweat!!!!!!!!!!!
    References :
    Had a repair business in Oregon 26 yrs

  • dartiator63 says:

    All of the insulation that got wet has been compromised and usually will not be reusable. We always got the rolls of R-20 and reset the insulation inside the hole by pushing the batt strip around with a pole. Then we attached a new piece of vapor barrier to the inside of the metal beam by using a 1 x 2 furring strip to attach to the floor joist. After the one side is tight, roll another 1 x2 in the barrier and pull it tight on the opposite side, attach it with nails or screws. Now get a can of spray adhesive and seal the other 2 ends. If you want you can push up on the barrier and attach it to a cross beam, but be careful that you do not pinch a water line or electrical line in the process. If you are close to South Texas, I could set you up with a complete re-plumb and vapor barrier patch job for around 2300.00. All new shutoffs, cpvc pipe, stainless steel faucet hoses, etc. I re-plumbed over 300 homes during the class action suite down here. Still do refurb for several parks.
    References :

  • petethen2 says:

    Had the same problem replaced all the plumbing with cpvc bought new 6in thick insulation and used thin fiberboard to cover the bottom.
    References :

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